Why do people who don’t cook always ask me for an
Aga? Many of my clients are from the affluent middle class who want their house remodelled. This usually includes a new kitchen, either within my nice new extension or in the existing building. They are busy people, often working all hours as lawyers, doctors, accountants and other high paying professions (not architects, alas), who come home so exhausted they can just about heat a pizza or boil in the bag Tesco curry. The even have an electric kettle, rather than an Aga friendly one which sits on the hob and whistles when it’s ready.
As you probably know, Agas are a hangover from the old cooking range, which was made of cast iron and needed blacking every day, continuous stoking with wood, coal, Grandma’s underwear or the kids’ toys; or anything else inflammable in order to keep the thing hot. Let it go out and get cold, and you won’t be eating for another five or six hours after putting the first match to the old newspapers and sticks inside. Of course, they died out pretty quickly once gas and electric cookers became available – clean, ready to use at a touch, no need for vast coal cellars or wood sheds. Women just did not want the hassle with a range any more, especially when they started going out to work.
And who can blame them?
But – Aga carries on making something very similar to the old range. They look great – all deep coloured enamel, shiny bits, huge, heavy and just the thing to fill that annoying gap under the chimney breast where the fireplace used to be (or the old range, if this is still the kitchen). Nowadays, they can be fired by coal (messy) oil (large and ugly tank in the garden) or gas (running out and soon to be prohibitively expensive). But, and it’s a big but, they have to be left on all the time. They are basically a very large and heavy piece of cast iron, which takes forever to warm up, and that of course is essential for cooking your roast beef and Yorkshire. Yes, on all the time. Just imagine a summer’s day – windows open, cool breeze blowing through, moving the flower arrangement in an attractive manner – boiling hot Aga. Many people switch it off over the summer and have a normal cooker installed. Come the winter, they realise just how much fuel they have saved and the Aga gets left as a kind of decorative architectural feature.
These things guzzle so much fuel you are on first name terms with the oil tanker driver, who sits permanently at the end of your drive filling the tank. If you have a coal fired one, then you develop muscles like Arnie Swartzenegger humping sacks of it in from the coal shed (which is the size of your garage). As for natural gas, well, why do you think the Russian gas suppliers are so rich?
So, why have an Aga?
One lady client, who had brought up four children and now had seven grandchildren and assorted nieces and nephews constantly visiting, loved her Aga. She was almost always cooking, you see – and it makes sense to have a cooker which is always on, so you can put a pot a jam or soup on it, go out and leave it for three hours. She made her own bread, early in the morning, so there was the Aga, ready and waiting, at the right temperature.
When I visited to carry out a survey of the outbuildings, she asked me in for a cup of tea (it was freezing, as it usually is when I carry out a survey). I walked into the kitchen and breathed deeply of the scented, warm, moist air and sighed with pleasure. The smell was so rich and good I felt as if I were eating it. There was the intense, sweet and sour smell of rasperry jam and sugar. Under it was a string quartet of cinnamon, butter, sugar and lemons. Earthy bass notes came from roasting chicken and potatoes. Oh, heaven.
Tea arrived and with it, a huge plate of lemon thins, the most delicious biscuits, manna which melted in the mouth. I watched her busying with the oven gloves and listened to her chatting, and felt completely at home, and completely at peace. I could have sat there forever.
This is the person an Aga was made for. Not an up tight professional who can’t even heat baked beans without blowing a fuse.